Adapting from the start

Blog 2

Start (Toona Gate Road, 90km from Tibooburra) – Innamincka

Dates – 11th – 13th June

Distance – 340.1km

Our drive up to Tibooburra ended up being quite eventful. We collected Gelareh from the airport and headed north but the main road was totally blocked due to flash flooding. After Martin winched a couple of vehicles that were stuck in the water, and particularly the silt, were forced to stay at Packsaddle, about 150km short of our destination. 

The following day we had to wait there until after 1pm to continue our drive. The next issue was that both Cameron Corner and Toona Gate roads were closed due to the rains and there was nothing we could do except sit and wait for the roads to dry out enough.

Tibooburra is where I stayed just before my crash and where I received the initial care after it. It was great to catch up with those at the Family Hotel, especially Phyllis, a local and in 2021, the Dingo Fence Warden (NSW/QLD state border).

By mid-morning on the 10th, we finally got the all-clear for both Cameron Corner Road and Toona Gate Road and made it there at the end of the day in readiness to start pedalling on the 11th. There were still muddy puddles across parts of the roads, but we made it through (Martin was bogged once).

Day 1

11th June

96.4km

I was a bit nervous about what it would be like starting from the point where I crashed because in 2021, Toona Gate Road was a small track, a mix of muddy claypans and sand. To our surprise, the road has been upgraded recently – it was twice the width and pretty smooth, especially as no one had driven along it since the 50mm (2 inches) of rain that had recently turned the place into a quagmire.

I restarted the journey from where I cycled to catch the vehicles, about 4km north of my crash site. The road sliced through the small sand ridges on the edge of the Strzelecki Desert, the only obstacles were a few cows and their tracks on the new dirt surface.

After 26km the plan was to turn up Omicron Road and the Epsilon Road 59km after that but unfortunately both were still closed, and with the public holiday, no one was going to assess it for two days. Russell (one of the support drivers) drove myself and Gelareh to Omicron Station, near the southern end of Omicron Road (which had also been upgraded), to see whether they had further information but no one was around. We wasted a lot of time trying to see whether this route was possible, because the alternative, diverting through Cameron Corner and along the Strzelecki Track would add an extra two days to the journey. That would mean I would be fives days behind schedule, and I had barely started.

Martin cranked up the Star Link satellite device and I spoke to the owner at Cameron Corner just to confirm the situation. Unfortunately there was no option but to go around. I was pretty frustrated as I powered off along the corrugated road, 36km to Cameron Corner.

Cameron Corner is the tri-point where the borders of NSW, Queensland and South Australia meet. The store is quite well equipped with an alfresco dining area suitably protected from the over friendly bush flies. A small kid (baby goat) was very entertaining in the carpark – playful and most inquisitive – so inquisitive in fact that it tried to suck on the mouthpiece of the water bottle attached to my bike, as if it was a teat! 

The afternoon stint along the Merty Merty Road turned into a real rollercoaster as I crossed sand ridge after sand ridge, a further 36km. The team found a great bush camp and it was wonderful to relax in the evening, Day 1 done, and enjoy the stars in the clear night sky.

Day 2

12th June

101.2km

The rollercoaster of a track continued through the ridges seemed to be higher and steeper. The gradient of each short, sharp climb varied between 10% and 15%. That was fine when my legs were fresh in the morning, but over the day, it started to take its toll. I loved being back in the fiery red sand dune country though. 

After 51km I turned the corner and heading north, the road tracked virtually parallel to the sand ridges, into a slight head wind. My most favourite section was a beautiful treed area, a few kilometres long, with a giant dune on the eastern side of the road. 

To our surprise, the Strzelecki Track had been recently sealed, which on one hand, made it easier for my tired legs. On the other hand, the road had lost its character, a black strip slicing through the desert. We found a sheltered campsite not far from the road.

Day 3

13th June

142.5km

The conditions were great today – a gentle tailwind and good road. I decided I would try to make up time, gunning for Innamincka. My 4.8 inch wide tyres (13cm) aren’t particularly efficient on the tarmac, but I moved along still at about 20km/hour average as far as Moomba, 35km into the ride.

There the bitumen ran out and I was pedalling along an extremely wide dusty, dirt road, frequented by trucks and heavy vehicles. This area is a gas (and some oil) field operated by Santos. I regularly passed gas pipes and installations, nestled amongst the sand ridges. The drivers were usually very courteous, slowing down to limit the dust. They all seemed very friendly. I crossed back over a series of larger sand dunes and turned off towards Innamincka. I my surprise, the last 40km was also recently sealed. This was really welcome as I became more and more tired, determined still to reach Innamincka.

There was a sting in the tail with the final section becoming quite hilly.

We are camped beside Cooper Creek here and enjoyed a well-earned meal in the local pub.